Monthly Archives: September 2017

Week 3 (Living in the GDR)

This past week, the program took us to Berlin and Prague for 6 days. Overall, it was an amazing experience. Berlin is so full of history because the Third Reich was based there, and the city was split during the Cold War. Our first night there, we took a tour of the city. Our guide took us to the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, which was breathtaking and very thought invoking. The memorial is pictured below.

Memorial to Murdered Jews of Europe in Berlin

The memorial is just large slabs of stone of varying size, shape, and orientation, without words or anything else. The artist’s explanation for his design was that there was no way to properly denote and remember the victims of the Holocaust, so he wanted his piece to provoke whatever thoughts and interpretations the viewer could come up with themselves. I, for one, think it works.

We also got the chance to tour the Stasi prison in Berlin, which has been preserved essentially as it was during the USSR’s control of the Eastern Bloc. The prison is in two main parts; the initial part was a kitchen was that requisitioned and turned into the first prison. It has very poor ventilation, and the cells were often tiny, in order to psychologically torture the prisoner. Being in one of the cells, even with the door opened, with the rest of my group, about 20 of us, made me short of breath; I can’t imagine having to live in one and rarely ever getting enough oxygen. The second part was built to replace the first, and is more like a traditional prison. However, no one prisoners came in contact with called them by name; they were assigned numbers and dehumanized as soon as they were arrested. The interrogaters and guards made non-physical torture an art form, horrific as it is.

Also while in Berlin, we met with two men, one a journalist, the other a surviver from the GDR, called Keup. The survivor’s story is the one that has stuck with me best. This man, now a cultural scientist, was born in East Berlin after his father, a Communist, moved his family there. His mother had family still on the other side, and for a few years, she was able to visit her family. Eventually, restrictions came into effect, and her family was only able to come to her. Keup shared that he met his grandparents for the first time when he was seven. In the GDR, citizens didn’t express dissatisfaction for fear of the consequences. When Keup was about to be invited to university, which was a big deal, and something only for people to toed the line of the Communist party, his family, including himself, put forth a request to move back to West Germany to be with their family again. It was denied and Keup had his university invitation revoked. Eventually as a young man, Keup attempted to flee East Berlin. He shared that he didn’t trust anyone in his family except his mother, and thus told only her about his plans. He was caught and spent 10 months in a prison, where he was psycologically abused and tortured. Eventually, he was deported to West Berlin, and only a few years later, the wall fell and his family joined. He later learned, after his brother has died, that his brother had been a Stasi informant, informing on him and his father.

Hearing about his experiences, I was amazed to think that there could be any situation where family would be willing to turn on family, but of course I have no real grasp of what is was like to live with your government watching and judging every move you made, the constant threat of being arrested or even disappeared without warning lingering every day. This bit of insight into life in the GDR made me so much more grateful to live in the US, and also has given me a better understanding of the political situation in the EU right now, which I’ll get into in a later post, because that’s a whole ‘nother topic.

While travelling, I also got to check out some cool museums in both Berlin and Prague, and do a little shopping, taking advantage of the exchange rates. Overall, despite the heavy topics, the trip was a huge success! I’ll be back with more to share soon!

The Charles Bridge in Prague

The Bundestag (parliament) building in Berlin

Week 2 (Yay, exploring, boo, adulting)

My first week continued with settling into my apartment. Finding toiletries and groceries was an adventure; some things are recognizable in the grocery store, but I had google translate running on my phone as I tried to distinguish shampoo from conditioner from body wash. But hey, now I’ve picked up a few new words!

IES also took us on some cool excursions; we got the chance to explore Vauban, including an area of the city with houses that are entirely green; they actually produce more energy than they consume. There is a reason Freiburg is known as the Green City of Germany! We also went to Titisee, a small town in the Black Forest, about 45 minutes from Freiburg. The town itself is very cute! It has touristy attractions, but also a beautiful, typical German lake right in the middle. It reminded me of scenes from the The Sound of Music movie, all the green, and the beautiful view of the water right outside of the Von Trapp house. We also came across a second body of water, with a sign warning about beavers, how cute (pictured below). While I was very sore the day after, it was a great way to see part of the Black Forest. I’m definitely going back!

After our hike, the group went to cafes to try authentic Black Forest cake. Unfortunately, the cafe my friends and I went to ran out (the insult!) but we still got great food and coffee. Overall, a great first week!

Second week, which just ended, marked the start of the intensive phase, where we were given crash courses in German and EU politics so we could have some basis for the field trip we leave on tomorrow morning. That meant we spent around 5 hours in a classroom (usually in a row) this past week and had an exam in the politic class, but overall, I feel like I actually know what’s going on where I live now, so yay! I’m also picking up on the German, but my accent is atrocious, so I’m basically just asking people “sprechen sie Englisch”, or “do you speak English” at this point. I’ll get better!

As I mentioned earlier, I leave on the first field trip tomorrow morning. The group is going to Berlin and Prague. We’ll be exploring the European Central Bank and Parliament buildings, and meeting with journalists and political scientists to learn some more the history of the European Union, Soviet Union, and current politics. I’ll have more stories and pictures when I get back!

Beaver pond

View on the hike

Grabbing Black Forest cake and coffee after our hike

Week 1 (Delayed and Tired, but Here)

So sorry for the delay if you’ve been waiting for my first post; I haven’t had wifi since I arrived here in Freiburg, which put a damper on my writing plans! Regardless, now here I am. It’s been crazy travelling here and trying to adjust to living in a new country. The train lines in Germany around Frankfurt are under construction due to a landslide, and so getting from Frankfurt airport to Freiburg is a process. The trains were so delayed that, while I was supposed to be one of three or so who arrived at the same time, we grew into a group of around twenty or so of us. It was actually very fun; the weather was extremely hot, but I got to meet a lot of my program mates earlier than planned.

In this first week, we, the IES students, have had the chance to explore some of the city, and the areas around it. Some history I’ve learned: the city of Freiburg is almost ninehundred years old. It was nearly completed destroyed in World War Two, but has been rebuilt in the old style so the buildings look as old as it actually is. The first few days after we arrived, we got the super-speedy introduction to Germany. There’s some interesting things that are very different from the US which I didn’t expect. For one, Germans don’t smile when they make eye-contact with strangers on the street; it’s been a challenge, actually, to not smile when I make eye-contact. Also, it is considered very rude to chew in class; even gum is a no-no usually. No more eating breakfast in class for me!

I’m living in an area of the city called Vauban, which used to be a French military barrack. Over the history of the area, the town, which was at some points a military base, has changed hands back and forth between Germany and France through the various wars both countries have been involved with. Following the end of French occupation of the area in the 1950s, both the city of Freiburg, and the university bought up much of the land, and now the area is mostly housing for families and sudents. I’m living with five other people right now; three women, two of whom are German, the third, French, and two men, one Moroccan, the other Middle eastern. I don’t see much of them yet, but I’m excited to get to know them, learn about where they come from, and hopefully practice some German with them!

I’ll post soon about my first week and more of the exploration we’ve done of the program soon!

Sweaty after a long day of travel