Czech Easter!

Easter is a big deal in the Czech Republic. Just like in the U.S., Czechs paint eggs as a fun way to get into the springtime spirit, whether they celebrate the religious connotations of Easter or not…but have you HEARD about the Czech tradition of Easter flogging? No?! Better get busy reading, then!!

On Easter Monday last week, I was awakened by my Czech brother Adriano. He dragged me out of bed and downstairs into the kitchen for “a celebration,” which involved me in my pajamas getting comically whipped by my male host-relatives. The whipping, of course, is all in good fun, and is one of the oldest traditions in the Czech Republic. Every Easter Monday, boys and men across the country make pomlázkas, which are sticks made out of braided pussywillow branches and decorated with ribbons. I had heard about this Easter men-whipping-women business when I first arrived in Prague, but I was pretty confused as to what this actually looked like.

As it turns out, there are several steps:

  1. I bend over.
  2. I am (playfully?) whipped upon the bottom with pomlázkas by every male-bodied person in the room (think trick-or-treating on Halloween, with male relatives stopping by your house on Easter morning to whip the women) while the men sing a song that roughly translates to wishing the woman well in terms of her fertility and youth in the springtime.
  3. tl;dr: If you are a girl or woman and you are not whipped by a man with a pomlázka on Easter Monday, you will not be fertile or youthful for the upcoming year. In the words of Adriano, “You will be dry and sad.”
  4. Once the men finish singing songs after the whipping (my host mom and host grandma were also whipped—it doesn’t hurt!), each woman is expected to gift the men with eggs we have decorated. See some pictures of my decorated eggs below, including one of Adriano with his pomlázka.

 

This is just a quick informational post—finals are starting up here already and things are getting so busy!—but in case you’d like to read up about more Czech Easter traditions, you can do so here.

My favorite Easter tradition that remained the same here in Prague: a delicious, pastry-heavy breakfast!! 🙂

Weekends, alone time, puberty

Today I’m thankful for: weekends, alone time, puberty

This marks the first weekend in over a month that I haven’t been traveling. This morning, I slept in for the first time in weeks instead of stumbling out of my room at zero dark thirty to catch a flight, or a train, or a bus! It is so nuts—I have been doing more traveling in the last two months than I have in my entire life combined (including family road trips, middle school overnights, reunions, vacations, and walking to Taq).

Traveling constantly is so different from taking one or a few large trips each year. There is some security that comes with this constant state of impermanency, the nomadic lifestyle of the study abroad traveler—security in the sense that this too shall pass. If something is amazing, then you get to experience it; if it’s not, then it will be over soon. Going with the flow has never been so necessary or so easy!

Although it has been incredible to be in such a central location in Europe with the means to explore so many different countries, there is beauty in being able to lazily wake up at 10am and make small talk with my host mom over a giant cup of coffee. Weekends have flown by when I’ve been on the move, and seem to teeter on at a pleasantly slow pace when I’m at home…which is Prague. Home! Czech Republic! Same diff! Incredible.

I’ve had the chance to take some time to myself this weekend and, in a delightfully meta thought experiment, reflect on what that actually means. Alone time when you’re studying abroad is rare, because the #FOMO (fear of missing out) is even more prevalent here than at school. How many people get the opportunity to explore Europe with virtually no responsibilities other than keeping yourself alive and going to school? You have to grab the bull by the horns/goulash by the dumplings/beer by the pint and go with the flow and seize the day and practice all the other empty cultural idioms to really get the “most” out of this experience. Right?

When I came home for dinner earlier this week, my fifteen-year-old host brother Adriano was ranting about the terrible day he had (a little girl had stomped on his prized white sneakers, ) and he talked and talked until he was out of breath—about how “dumb” this girl was, about how he had to clean his shoes, about how much they had cost, etc. Finally, he slumped over the table and declared, “I hate puberty.” I burst out laughing—honestly, how could you not—and knew that I would have missed this oh so special moment had I been traveling.

….and now for some PICS!

Since my last post, I’ve been fortunate enough to meet up with fellow off campus Whittie Maya in Budapest, and then travel to Amsterdam with off campus Prague-based Whittie Molly and some friends last weekend for the start of tulip season!

On a bridge in Budapest

Maya!

Keukenhof Garden with Molly & Co.

Enjoying some frites in Amsterdam

More adventures to come!

Na shledanou,

Mary

 

Halfway done?! (see: Moms, “girl talk,” this magical life)

Today I’m thankful for: moms, “girl talk,” this magical life

Today marks halfway through my study abroad experience! How is this happening?! I’ve been here five minutes and I never want to go home!!

My biggest question (besides how many tredelniks can I eat in a day? and why does that woman on the metro have a mustache tattooed on her face?) is: how did I go 21 years without knowing the people I’ve met here?!

Although the modern inventions of FaceTime and WhatsApp are amazing, my abroad friends and my host family have become the two biggest support systems and sources of love in my life. This feeling continues to be solidified by my many visitors whilst residing in Prague. My wonderful mom Jane visited me last week, and then my best friend (and fellow Whittie) Amelia and her mom Trina visited me soon after that! Amelia even stayed in my homestay for a night, too, which means she got to meet Biggie, a main player in my study abroad experience (more on him in a sec).

It was 7 back-to-back days of female empowerment, and the fact that so many moms were colliding in my world—my host mom Lenka, my mom, Amelia’s mom—made my heart sing. Below is a picture of my mom, my host mom, her boyfriend Tomáš, and my homestay-sister-from-New-York Sam when my mom took us out to dinner during her visit.

Moving on to girl talk: what’s the deal with this phrase having such a vapid connotation? Females talking can change the dang world!!

Some of the most significant and meaningful instances of cultural exchange I’ve experienced here have come in the form of long, meandering conversations with my host mom Lenka and my fellow homestay-er Sam at the kitchen table—Sam and me in our pajamas, our host mom with her cup of tea. We talk about boys—our host brother Adriano, boys from home, boys on our program—and we also talk about Trump, and the immigration ban, and why Sam and I can’t get the “Ř” sound right when we try to speak Czech. At that table, we’ve learned that Lenka has never seen The Sound of Music (?!!?), that Sam and I finally share some common thread re: the drag scene (see: Adore Delano, or Danny Noriega from American Idol Season 7), and that I’m really, really good at procrastinating on my Czech homework. Last night, Lenka laughed so hard she cried because Sam told her about the strange noises our dog Biggie was making when she was trying to study (“It’s springtime, so those noises are his hormones” was the explanation we got).

The commute in and out of Prague’s city center might be a little long or a little lonely, especially on rainy days, but being able to waltz through the door and be welcomed by a warm kitchen and two amazing women (and sometimes Adriano, especially on movie nights) is the best gift I could hope to receive while living here.

The food isn’t bad either—here’s a picture of Sam making Irish soda bread in honor of St. Patrick’s day (obsessed):

Now, if I think about leaving Prague—just when the weather’s beginning to get nice, and it’s starting to smell like summer at night, and I’ve built enough of a rapport with my host family that pajamas are really an okay uniform around the house—I become physically uncomfortable.

I love the little Ikea loft where Sam and I live. I continue to be fascinated by how a creature like Biggie, our tiny black Whippet dog, can exist in the world without disappearing into nothing. Riding the metro, going to class, walking down cobblestone streets that are hundreds of years old and gulping down my afternoon cappuccinos have coalesced into a singular rhythm, the beat of a completely wack and different and magical life I’m fortunate enough to live for another precious few months.

Don’t make me leave! @WhitmanCollege award me the Internship Grant for the position of Daughter in this host family so I can stay here until graduation!!

Lots of love to my adoring fans (& na shledanou to the haters),

Mary