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Food; the Most Important Meal of the Day

Let’s talk about spice. I can’t handle it. As in, the “mild” grocery store salsa had a fair amount of kick for me. At least five times a week here, my lips tingle, my tongue goes numb and my eyes water. However, I have the advantage of being “farang”, or “foreigner”. At my favorite Pad Thai stall, for example, they see my pasty whiteness and don’t even add a single chili pepper. Which is lovely, because then the flavors of shrimp, fried shallots and peanuts can come out. Delicious; sometimes I get it wrapped in a thin, cooked egg (see below).
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I was a vegetarian for 2 years, then started eating meat again for Thailand. Food is a huge aspect of culture that I wanted to fully embrace, and I didn’t want burden/impose on my host families with my special dietary needs. And for both of those reasons I’m really glad I’m not vegetarian here. But, more importantly, I am supremely glad I get to try the street meat. Vendors sell marinated, grilled pork and chicken on a stick practically melting on your tongue with a bag of sticky rice for 20 baht (~55 cents) which is usually my breakfast.

 

I haven’t noticed much dessert here. That could be because sugar is in literally everything (smoothies, fried rice, and soup). But it also could be because of the fruit. The best mango, papaya, pineapple and other unknown fruits I have ever had have all been devoured in the past three weeks. And while that makes for a great dessert dipped in a bag of chili sugar, they are even better made into smoothies. Usually taken with a few large helpings of the fruit itself, crushed ice, and a few good heaping spoons of sugar. No matter what the fruit, it’s absolutely fresh and delicious.

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Watermelon smoothie. Probably my favorite type, but I have yet to explore all the possibilities.

There are three foods that never cease to make me happy, no matter how my day is going. The first is coconut ice cream. Made fresh each day with coconut milk and with fresh shavings of coconut, this is heaven on earth. The vendor, a block away from our classroom, gets at least three or four American students buying her ice cream at lunch every day. 

The second delectable is banana-chocolate-waffles. My friend and I had five in two days. Mushed bananas are added to waffle batter, and the waffle is taken like a taco with chocolate syrup added to the middle.

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One of the many banana-chocolate-waffles consumed in Chiang Mai.

The third amazing concoction is honey toast. It’s basically french toast with a lot of powdered sugar, chocolate, nuts, and fruit on it. It’s in most cutesy coffee shops that are everywhere around my apartment.

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There are some foods that aren’t readily available in Thailand, including avocados, cheese, and garlic bread. And while I miss these foods, I have enjoyed the food I have experienced (except chicken foot soup and silk worms), regardless of if I can taste what I’m eating by the end of the meal and how I feel later on.

The rest of the images are an amalgam of food pictures I’ve taken to give you a better idea for what I eat on the daily. 

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My roommate took me out for Korean BBQ. Yet another reason I’m so glad I’m no longer a vegetarian.

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Banana-chocolate-crepe. With lots of whipped cream. This is my third of the day, and the enthusiasm is not lessened. At all.

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We’re pretty sure this is duck egg. It, and quail egg, are available at a lot of street vendors and are usually grilled rather than hard-boiled.

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A typical lunch at the U-Center; Pad Thai with chicken or egg and a kiwi smoothie.

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Thai tea is not really what it is in America. It’s more of a blend of Thai tea and a foamy cappuccino.

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I can’t remember what this called, but it’s a sort of pork broth with tofu, pork, egg and rice noodles that is eaten for breakfast.

Words and the Human Connection

This week, after seven lessons in Thai, I went to my very first home stay (!!!). In a “slum” community called Teparak 5, I met my host mom and dad. They speak no English, and by the afternoon of the first full day together I had completely exhausted my Thai, my most complex sentences including “my mom is a doctor” and “my boyfriend’s name is John”. But those exchanges had gone very well, especially with the aid of pictures.
On the second night I decided to go to the living room area and read with my host mom. My host mom decided she wanted a “late night” snack (bedtime is around nine thirty here) and I followed her to the kitchen area motioning me helping cut fruit, having completely forgotten the words to offer help. After much gesturing, I was handed a knife and started cutting something she called “boom”. I have no idea what it is in English, but imagine a potato mixed with an apple and a jicama.
My host mom started talking in Thai. I didn’t understand a word she was saying, but I don’t think she expected me to. She didn’t pause or look up from her “boom” cutting to see if I understood. Her tone was soft and almost sad; I think she was confiding some problem that had been weighing on her. We then sat down and ate the boom in complete silence, but it was a beautiful silence. I found myself a lot closer to my host mom than I had been twenty minutes ago. We smiled at each other a few times, a deep, full hearted smile that made me warm to my toes. It was the kind of smile usually reserved for close friends and family members, the kind that indicates a true connection to someone and full, complete trust and love.
And this got me thinking. While language is necessary to efficiently communicate needs and wants in daily life, there already exists a connection that stretches across age, gender and experiences. It can be tapped into and exposed, bringing a Thai electronics store worker and an American twenty one year old student together in the middle of the night in a small community by the train tracks.

Adventures in Nam Nao National Park

On Thursday a group of CIEE students decided we wanted to take advantage of our free weekend and leave our new home in Khon Kaen, Thailand. We found a national park a two and a half hour bus ride away with waterfalls and wild elephants and booked a bungalow that fit nine people.

When we arrived at the Khon Kaen bus station early Saturday morning station we found out that we would couldn’t buy a round trip ticket but we figured we could just buy it at the bus terminal on the way back.
Flash forward two and a half hours and we were nicely deposited at the sign for the entrance to the park on the side of the highway. No bus terminal or place to buy the return ticket in sight. But the bus had already left so we went up to the park rangers dressed similar to American military and asked about a return bus. There are two, we were told, at noon and 3pm. You catch them by flagging them down on the side of the road.  With the happy knowledge we could indeed get back to Khon Kaen, we got lunch and went for a three hour hike to a “view point”, keeping an eye out for elephants as we were continuously warned by signs.
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The Viewpoint

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One of the many warnings of elephants.

While we were taking in the cool breeze and swinging in hammocks, a group of around fifty high schoolers walked up with their one teacher. Once we said  “Sa wa dee ka” (hello in Thai) the students got really excited and giggly. One of them came up to Anna in the hammock and told her she was beautiful and could be a movie star. The student then asked if she could take Anna’s picture. Around twenty of them (my photo doesn’t include everyone), including the park ranger crowded in for a group photo.
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We headed down the hill as a big group, and I fell in step with the teacher who attended Michigan State for a year. He told me about his time in America and also his students, many of whom were hiking for the first time as they photographed different plants for a biology project. We passed the group as they pulled off to take another group photo, and as we passed at least five of the students turned around and took selfies with us in the background. So who knows, maybe I’ll become an Internet sensation. The headlines will be along the lines of “Farang spotted hiking!” (Farang is a common word I’ve been called, meaning foreigner).

After the best night of sleep I have had in Thailand, we set out Sunday morning to find a shuttle to take us to the waterfalls, ordinarily a twenty mile round trip walk along the freeway. Turns out the waterfall is dry this time of year, so we went for a beautiful hour long hike instead.

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Along the hike!

We then left the park/main area and walked the mile or so to the side of the freeway where we were to flag down the returning bus. We got there half an hour early, just to be safe, and started waiting.

And waiting.
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Then the bus came!!!!! Unfortunately it was a wee bit crowded on the bus. In other words, all of us sat squished ourselves into the aisle along with about five other people. In Thai culture it’s improper for strangers to touch, especially between genders. I found myself sitting next to a Thai businessman in a collared shirt and tie in the ground in an open area at the back against the hot engine. After a brief moment of panic I decided it would be better if my backpack was wedged against him rather then my leg. Which left me hugging my knees to my chest and one arm half around my backpack in a desperate attempt to not touch anyone, including the people sitting on the hard plastic bench right behind me. Fun fact: the musical Hamilton is a great thing to listen to in every circumstance, but it really makes the time go fast. I would highly recommend listening to the entire musical should you ever find yourself on the floor of of a bouncy bus.
After another hour of traversing through heavy traffic in Khon Kaen in a Song Tao (a truck-like form of public transportation), we made it to the university and celebrated with watermelon smoothies and a fireworks show, courtesy of the university in a celebration of the end of the month-long agricultural fair.

Overall it was an amazing trip full of laughs and spontaneous adventures. And even though we only saw signs to beware of elephants and and pictures of waterfalls, it was fun to explore a Thai national park and bond with fellow program mates.