Midterms mark a sort of a halfway point for my time in Berlin. Here I am in the midst of taking exams and writing papers so evidently, there is no better time to write about my time here. 

                           

You know the question “use one word to describe (yourself, how you feel, insert name of place, name of person, etc),” well if I were asked this question in regard to Berlin I would say “I feel conflicted.” I am totally conflicted. I think my varying opinion comes from the fact that I measure it on whether or not I could live here or live somewhere like here. Maybe this is an odd way to look at things, but every day, I find myself considering this question. When I first got here, there was very little time to think. The week of orientation was constant and in the time we had outside of scheduled activities people in the dorm did stuff together. After five days of doing this, I got sick or just exhausted. Being sick in another country that doesn’t sell medicine at regular stores, with no close friends, was definitely far from ideal. For a few days, I felt all the symptoms of sickness, but worst of all, I felt very alone…However, it did give me a few days to rest and reflect on exactly how I want to spend my time here. From my four-day sickness, I learned: 

1.  Although I love people, engaging 24/7 takes everything out of me. I love spending time by myself and walking around aimlessly. 
2. Museums are cool, however, there are other things I prefer doing and seeing. I definitely still enjoy going to museums but no more than in a day. 
3. It is ok to say no to events and activities that you do not want to do. 
4. Abandoned berlin (the Website) is so so cool 

RANDOM THINGS I think about 

1. One thing that I both love and hate about Berlin is its size (geographically). It is huge and because of this, I know that I will never have enough time to explore all of it. Here, there is no excuse for being bored because there is always something to do. In Walla Walla and even Portland at times the lack of obvious fun things to do forces me to use creativity. During the first week of class, we read Georg Simmel’s “The Metropolis and Mental Life” which analyzes the differences in life between rural and urban settings. In the city, there is a constant simulation, to avoid exhaustion (or to simply exist) individuals develop a “blasé outlook.” People cultivate a sort of indifference in order to protect themselves from urban fatigue. At home, I feel like I feel more inclined to interact with what I come across, possibly because I am not in a constant state of encountering unknown things. Here, I simply cannot be impressed or even pay attention to all that is around me. The constant unfamiliarity seems to quench some of my creative energy allowing me to no longer feel the need to create my own fun. I miss coming up with odd things to fill my time and yet I love the fact that I am constantly surrounded by different things that I can engage with and look into.
2. I love the public transportation system. The second week I was here I met up with someone who moved here a year and 3 months ago from Turkey (who I now regularly hang out with). He promised me a tour of the Technological Universities Library, but after walking around it for 15 minutes he admitted they didn’t know what to do next. Having had no chance to really explore Berlin on my own I admitted to not knowing any specific things we could do and suggested we come up with a random number, get on the Sbahn, and ride the random number of stops we had chosen. Without much time we did not ride the S Bahn that far, but I continued to hop on the S and ride it to random places to explore the expansive city. 
3. The grocery stores are pretty GREAT because they are affordable. Compared to the US nothing is sold in bulk (except potatoes, carrots, and onions). I am someone who enjoys walking and so I don’t mind taking multiple trips to the store per week. I just wish I had packed a larger shopping bag to carry stuff home. But I can buy a week’s worth of groceries for like 30 euro so I would say that is pretty great. (If you visit, make sure you bag your groceries quickly). 
4. The thrifting here is horrible because everything is so expensive, but there are great flea markets on Sundays (not mauer park but everything else). 
5. THE DONER! I would have to say that doner is my new favorite food. I have tried it at a few different locations, however so far the best I’ve had is in the train station right next to my house. 
6. I have always loved abandoned places. I like the idea of imagining what something once was, walking around something that is “forgotten”, something that has been discarded.  In more rural areas, you often have to travel to get to these places, however, in Berlin, they are everywhere. There is such a striking contrast about seeing something abandoned next to things that are newly built and modern. Now many of these places are in the process of restoration or being knocked down. I think it is extremely unfortunate when buildings get torn down, so I have been glad to see that many places in Berlin are being refurbished. Tempelhof was once an airport and is now a large park with a community garden and some food stands and the abandoned Spree Park is in the process of being reopened as a park as well. Around three weeks ago I visited one of the first Prussian hospitals, its ceiling was caving in and graffiti was all over its walls. This building lies outside of central Berlin and is surrounded by fencing. It would probably be dangerous to reopen it for large groups of people to look at the graffiti on the interior, however, I wonder if parts of it could be restored or if soon it will be knocked down.

7. When I first went to techno, I could feel a part of myself worrying about how tired I would feel the next day. Staying out till early in the morning really ruins most of the next day for you. Since my first few experiences going out, my opinion has improved. Letting go of how I may feel the next day and allowing myself to really sleep in makes the night worth it….Also hard, fast techno is the best. 

8. If I leave the building I’m in and walk five steps I can easily hop on the Ubahn or the S Bahn. I am very thankful to live in this central location that allows me to easily get around. However, I do live in one of the ugliest neighborhoods, which I did not know when I first arrived (so I assumed that all of Berlin looked like where I live). I have since found many neighborhoods and places that I enjoy, but if I am trying to quickly switch locations I ride ten minutes to Kreuzberg. This part of town is filled with wonderful cafes, thrift shops, and unique restaurants. One of my favorite bars is called the multilayerladen, its design is unique,  people sit on swings and climb up ladders to get seating. 

9. The libraries here are beautiful, but always extremely full. Inside, there could easily be more seating and more tables but for some reason, it seems they opt for a more laid-out appearance over the ability to seat as many people as possible.

10. I still miss nature, however as it begins to warm up (finally) I have begun to appreciate the parks (although there are still no leaves on the trees  

11. I miss sticks of gum wrapped in paper and stars at night 

12. I wish that I had continued taking German because although basically everyone here speaks English I think speaking the language would open up possibilities for true connection. 

13. It is so great that travel is so cheap, I wish it could be like this in the US. 

14. Why is water not free? I already forget to drink, but now I spend the entire day without it if I forget it. Also, I find it interesting that people buy water in bottles instead of getting it from their sinks. 

15. People should be required to learn another language in the US. 

As of today, I do not believe that I would want to live here more permanently but it’s unbelievable that I get to spend 2 more months here. (abrupt ending but I don’t feel like writing more). 

 

If you spend twenty minutes walking around central Berlin, you will encounter various shipping container spaces. Many are used on construction sites as office spaces, break rooms, or temporary housing; others are convenient co-working spaces, and near Templehof, the containers are being used to house refugees. These containers were once seen as only temporary solutions, but now they are being utilized by architects and young business owners to create affordable, aesthetic spaces. Many Berliners have spoken about the recent increase in rent and cost of living. With more than 80% of Berlin’s population renting homes, this problem is something many can relate to.

After reunification, many remember the price of living being extremely cheap, some of my Professors have joked that “you could walk down the street and find an apartment.” Thirty years ago, there was no shortage of space and developers recognized this as an opportunity.  In 2017, Berlin experienced one of the biggest property price increases in the world, and the year after that it was declared the “number one city in Europe for property investment.” With an increase in people moving to Berlin, many locals have found it difficult to house themselves in the city. On January 30, 2020, the Berlin parliament approved a rent cap, supposed to stop rent increases for five years in buildings developed before 2014. However, this decision was revoked in 2021, due to the argument that only the federal government has the right to control rent. 

Evidently, this is a huge issue but not without people in search of solutions. In 2014, Holzer Kobler Architekturen, designed EBA15, a student housing unit, made entirely out of shipping containers. The building is located in Plänterwald, close to a protected forest scape and a large allotment garden plot. For some, being close to nature is ideal, but for members of the younger generation, Plänterwald may seem a bit isolated. Recognizing isolation as an issue Hozer made it a priority to incorporate community spaces such as shared kitchens, green spaces, and barbecue areas in his design.

EBA15

near EBA15

 

BRLO BRWHOUSE, is another example of the trendy way that shipping containers can be used. The brewery offers tours of its two-story establishment and is proud that the containers allow for it to easily be relocated. 

Adlershof

Just a bit further from Plänterwald lies Adlershof which is considered to be a part of the “city of science.” Once, Adlershof was home to the Johannisthal Air Field now it is home to ten research institutes and the science and math sectors of Humbolt university. Living in Plänterwald, surrounded by green space and only a 15-minute ride into the city was appealing to me. However, even the 350 euro rent would not tempt me to live in Aldershof, surrounded by cement and buildings that scream WE ARE DOING TECHNICAL RESEARCH. 

We are doing tech-buildings

 

g  The cool buildings in Adlershof

 

Asking about rent

Yes, the housing situation in Berlin is dismal especially if you want to live close to the center. Wanting to know more about how exactly one searches for a reasonable space I talked to a friend who has been living in West Berlin near the Zoologischer Garten. He explained that like most places and things you need connections. His friend originally found the apartment on Ebay and after touring explained to the landlord that he could not pay the full price. Surprisingly, the landlord explained that he just wanted a nice person to take over the rent and allowed him to pay 430 euros a month. When his friend decided to return to university in Sweeden he was able to take over the apartment. So far, living in Berlin has not been a challenge for him, but he explained that even for students housing is unreliable. Often universities will accept students and then explain that there are no open dormitories creating a challenging situation, especially for students coming from abroad.

 

I am writing this on the bus back from Prague, which is where I spent the past two nights with seven friends. On Friday we all woke up early and took a train to Dresden for an IES-planned tour. While packing my backpack the night before I had overlooked a few essential layers. The morning before leaving for the day trip in Dresden, I jumped out of bed and got ready quickly with my blinds closed. In my painted red room with only the aiding artificial light above me, I was blind to the grey sky outside, a sign that would have warned me of the cold. Remembering that just two days before I had walked without a jacket around Tempelhof – an old airfield, I decided to put on a skirt and tights. This outfit was sufficient for Berlin and too hot for the train (which felt like a sauna) but as soon as we arrived in Dresden, I realized that I had made a terrible mistake. Many of the people on the Dresden trip were also leaving for Prague so we all were lugging around various amounts of baggage. A friend of mine was carrying a gigantic bag, so big, that she could have packed a tent, sleeping bag, clothes, and maybe some food and camped in the city instead of staying at the Airbnb.  During the three-hour tour, people poked fun at her large bag and the fact that I was wearing a skirt. It is this large bag that saved me many times on the trip, the first of which took place in Dresden.

Just as the walking tour was about to begin our tour guide proudly stated, “in this city, everything is close together so don’t worry, there won’t be much walking.” Perhaps this anti-walking stereotype holds true for many tourists, but I love walking, and I especially love walking if it’s the only way to conserve heat. Within the first thirty minutes, we all realized that this was more of a standing tour. A standing tour in Infront of the river hit by the cold winds of the water. To conserve heat people began to do jumping jacks, bob up and down, or walk awkwardly back and forth, to anyone walking by we either looked freezing or insane. My friend with the gigantic backpack saw me bent over and offered me a sweater, which she pulled from her bag. Needless to say, the horrible weather in Dresden tainted the experience, so many people were excited to leave.

Two important lessons can be learned here – always pack a sweater and people who carry large backpacks are immensely cool.

(cold and unhappy)

At 9:30 we arrived in Prague and the instant we exited the train station I knew that I loved it. Oftentimes when you exit train stations you enter either the most modern, bland, ugly part of town or the sketchiest. In Prague, upon leaving the station we found ourselves surrounded by historic buildings. Unlike Berlin Prague has many hills and although the public transport is not even comparable to the efficiency of Berlin’s you can walk everywhere in Prague and arrive within 35 minutes. The first evening a group of us went to a small bar near Zizkov where we were staying.

The next morning, we got up early and walked to a small bakery, then through Old town, across the Charles Bridge, and up to the Prague castle and Cathedral.

This tourist spot is absolutely worth it, I have never been inside a more beautiful cathedral. From there, we went to a restaurant where I tried Pork Knuckle (I do not know if I would recommend but I felt like it was something that I had to try). After stuffing ourselves we decide to visit Petrin hill, while walking up, each of us recognized how much we had missed nature. The ability to be able to hear birds sing, see the green returning to the trees, and see hints of spring sprouting out of the ground is such a privilege. The short hike was beautiful, but during this time we realized that we were going to face some problems later that night. You see, when we first arrived, we had been given a key in a box with a code. There were seven of us and one singular key, which instantly was a slight problem, but we assumed that we could simply put the key back into the coded box and get in and out without too much trouble. Unfortunately, 24 hours after we arrived the code expired leaving us with only one key, so we all had to coordinate everything. At 2:00 the four of us had already walked 11 miles and wanted to go rest for a bit, however, the person holding the key was difficult to track down. We wandered aimlessly for an hour and a half before we were able to get back inside.

That night we went to an underground bar called Vzorkovna Dog Bar. The inside is a bit like a labyrinth, with four bars, multiple levels of seating that you can climb up to, and different rooms with live music, DJs, and games. When we first arrived we were not sure how long we would stay but after settling in and finding seating we began to warm up to the live music and people wrestling, and began to explore the multiple things that were climbable.

Today we had a later start. My cousin who had studied abroad in Prague years ago had recommended that I designate at least one day to just wandering the city, so today that is exactly what I did.  A friend and I separated from the group and walked along the river until we ended up at Vysehrad (another castle and beautiful viewpoint).

Quick bullet point recommendations

• St. Vitus Cathedral
•  U Parlamentu
• Petrin Hill
• Vysehrad
• Vzorkovna Dog Bar

Do not recommend.

• The fennel cake (if you get it don’t get whipped cream just get Nutella)
• Don’t forget a sweater.

Something that I love:

Although Berlin can easily be traveled at times its size can be a bit overwhelming. Now that I have been in Berlin for a month, I have found myself going back and forth on my opinion of the city. I have been thinking a lot about whether I want to live in a city after college and what the essential characteristics of this city would be for me. I think that the walkability of Prague and the easily accessible green spaces (that truly allow you to escape the sound of the city) are some key elements that I want to look for wherever I end up.