Well, for a place with centuries of history and culture attached to it, Glasgow has a surprisingly modern feel to it. Situated almost on Scotland’s west coast, the city is about two and a half hours from St. Andrews, about forty-five minutes from Edinburgh and is well connected to the entire country and the isles by ferries and other rail services. When I say modern, I don’t mean the Seattle kind but the kind that comes with having a younger population by demographic in a town that is as old as any. If Edinburgh is a finely aged single malt whiskey, then Glasgow is a bold and effervescent craft beer, one with very delicate undertones of anything citrus. I would be willing to personify the place as somebody in their late sixties who communicates with memes and employs copious amounts of gen-z vocabulary terms in their sentences. In all seriousness though, Glasgow does slap and I’m willing to go so far as to say that presently, I do prefer it over Edinburgh. My introduction to the city and primary experiences over a few days were nothing short of interesting and form the bulk of this lore that I talk about, and it all started with a visit to The Gallery of Modern Art.
Gallery of Modern Art
As I made my way down Buchanan street, I remember stopping every two minutes to take a shot to capture what I was hoping would be “The” Glasgow Shot. Something that captured the essence of the place as well as Cockburn street does Edinburgh. There is a case to be made about a sense of authority people recognize in you when you’ve got a professional camera. You can see a distinct change in their behavior, because not only do they stop and wait for you to finish taking your picture before they can pass by, they apologize if they can’t make the time to. I’d observe people observe me direct my camera towards something, and imitate it by taking out their phones and photographing the same thing. It makes for easy conversation starters too, tell someone you’re a photographer and granted you aren’t insufferable, most people will want to learn more about your areas of specialty, the camera equipment and how you got into photography. Almost certainly everyone knows at least one person who’s into photography and they’re always included in conversations with the “Oh yeah that’s great, one of my friend’s does photography as well…” This is precisely what I thought my conversation with a middle aged woman would be when she curiously gestured to me and started to walk in my direction. She had an accent that I would’ve placed somewhere in Turkey up until she informed me that she’s Bulgarian. She told me that she’s been looking for a portrait & events photographer for her sibling’s wedding because the arranged contractor got into a negotiation altercation with them at the very last moment and here is where I found myself running into a very unexpected opportunity. I was offered to be the photographer at one of her sister’s weddings by the side of town next weekend, because they were offering to cover the travel and a night’s stay, I wasn’t getting paid which was fine by me. We ended up exchanging contact details over a pint, and now I’m going to be photo-shooting someone’s wedding next weekend. Needless to say that I feel a wave of pressure building, I’d rather not mess up what is arguably the greatest day of someone’s adult life but then again, I do trust myself enough to put up a good performance. I spent the latter half of the day walking around the university district, exploring the Kelvingrove Museum and exploring the farthest reaches of town on the Glasgow subway at a particularly ungodly hour.
Buchanan Street N-S
Buchanan Street Lane
Glasgow Square
Glasgow Train Station
Town Square
The University of Glasgow isn’t too far off from the town center, and by getting a Glasgow subway day pass for about 7 quid, you can make your way to Hillhead using the outer-circle. The subway uses the outer-circle for trains going clockwise and the inner-circle for the trains going counter-clockwise to hit the same stations and you could take either line if you’re not low on time. The walk from Hillhead to Gilbert Scott, which is the main and the most known building on campus is picturesque, especially in fall when the foliage covers the streets and stone cobbled paths all around the campus. The buildings, with their Gothic architecture are an endless reminder of the vast and rich educational legacy of the school whose establishment predates that of the printing-press and as you wander through the campus, you can’t help but be enchanted by the stately buildings, reminiscent of scenes straight from classic literature stories. The Gilbert Scott building, as you probably inferred, is named after Sir George Gilbert Scott, who was a renowned Gothic Revival architect in the latter half of the nineteenth-century. The building is characterized by its striking twin spires and intricate stone detailing and towers above the surrounding landscape, offering arguably the best view of Glasgow. Inside, the building houses the grand Bute Hall which is used for graduation ceremonies and other significant university events. The cloistered quadrangles, with their arches and stone corridors, provide serene spots for reflection and study, often reminding visitors of the building’s historic and academic significance, and for those die hard fans of the Harry Potter series, offer a sense of home and resemblance to the beloved Great Hall within the Hogwarts castle.
Gilbert Scott Building
Building Entrance
View of the Church from the Building
The Arches under the Hall
There was an unholy amount of pictures I took of the building’s exteriors and of those areas to which I had access, and then made my way down from the building towards what looked like a cathedral at first. The university district is separated from the townside by the River Kelvin which flows right by the campus and makes for a breathtakingly gorgeous walk around the early morning or late evening hours. The river originates in the uplands of East Dunbartonshire, specifically from the Kilsyth Hills where from it flows southwards, covering a journey of approximately twenty-two miles before reaching its confluence with the Clyde in the western part of Glasgow. What was supposed to be a mere ten-minute stroll turned out to be an hour-long period of quiet for me when I decided to do a bit of reading. The background was too serene to have missed out on an experience like that, and I decided to sit myself at the bench that overlooked the river which was by now gleaming golden under the waning sun. That hour, in every sense of the world felt like an eternity which is generally not the case when you’re immersed in something that you supposedly love, but that’s what I discovered about our experience of time, well, mine at least. I wasn’t reading something I loved, I was reading about something I loved. It was in a prose-poetry fashion which isn’t something I intrinsically enjoy owing to its general fragmented nature but it led me to discover that novelty and discomfort are the key to prolonging our experience of living, and stretching the notion of our subjective-time. Time, for us, passes quickly when we’re involved in the pursuit of something we love, and whenever we choose to momentarily suspend our self-awareness in mindlessly feeding on consumer data, but it passes painfully slowly when we’re being confronted by situations we deem uncomfortable or experiences we deem novel. Surely, the key then is to wrap those objects of affection in a layer of effort. Effort that is consequent of breaking that very layer down to achieve these objects and experiences we deem worthy. The idea is to still pursue the things you love, but in a way that is slightly different from when the last time you pursued the same muse. I did ruminate on the idea for a while before my photography instinct kicked in and urged me to get moving to capture the sunset.
The Church from the River
The Building and the River Kelvin
River Kelvin at Sunset
The Kelvingrove museum was another religious experience, because of which I’ll be keeping myself from writing about it on this particular post to avoid it from being unbearably long and descriptive. I will say however, that the place is absolutely stunning, and you’d be missing out on a defining Glasgow experience if you don’t pay it a visit. Moving on, by the time I was done with the Museum and a dinner that lasted over an hour, it was decently late, but my buzzed up self wanted to stay out past midnight and ride the subway at the unholy hour of twelve past which is when most Glasgow residents report paranormal sightings in the stations. Before we dive into this foolery however, it’s essential to understand the history of the Glasgow Subway. Opened in 1896, it is one of the oldest underground rail systems in the world. The subway consists of a circular loop with fifteen stations, connecting various parts of the city and over the years, it has witnessed countless passengers passing through its tunnels, but some stories suggest that not all of them have left…ooOOoOOooooooOOOOO. There have been numerous instances of people reporting phantom trains that pass right by the stations without ever stopping. They’re said to resemble the older, decommissioned rail cars and have been claimed to be driverless on numerous occasions. On other occasions still, people report meeting with a young lost child at a stop called Govan station who occasionally tugs on people’s clothing for comfort and guidance. I remember so vividly trying to convince myself that I won’t be caught lacking if some random ghost child tugs at me and that I’ll drop kick that donny right onto the tracks and leave the phantom train to deal with his abandonment issues. Maybe that’s why he never approached me. I went back disappointed after having waited for nearly forty minutes for both, that lil child and that train.
The Kelvingrove Museum at Sunset