Author Archives: Genevieve Vogel

In conclusion

Yesterday I had my internship paper due (6,000 words) and it was a scramble to finish. My head is still spinning from trying to find new sentence starters, hence the title. Silliness aside, this is my last post and I will be sharing my concluding thoughts in a list of advice peppered with my more personal musings. Disclaimer that these are my feelings and opinions and I am sure anyone who takes this program will have their own unique experiences. 

  1. Had I done this again, I would not do a homestay program. I think navigating new relationships and implanting into people’s complicated lives can come with a lot of exhaustion and frustration. My friend made a good point when she said it can feel like backtracking since we’re used to living independently at college. Now there are people you have responsibilities to and who have expectations for you in a sometimes parental way. I think this, of course, depends on what kind of relationships you have with your homestay. However, I think it is really difficult to figure out the rules of the relationship between being a guest, but also someone who is paying to be housed, and not at the level of family. I think I bounced between being relaxed and feeling like a guest with little control or understanding of what was happening. There’s also the difference of not being around students/young people as easily. I think I would have preferred an apartment in close proximity to friends, like in a university town.
  2. I have fallen in love with the Mediterranean and absolutely will be traveling to more places in the future. Greece and Italy were incredible places to visit. I need to see more!
  3. My relationship with travel and what I want from it has evolved. Very urban cities are not my thing, but I do enjoy relaxed neighborhoods like those in Greece or the quieter streets in Florence. I hate crowds and feel nervous in the chaos. I like to feel safe. I like to spend the most amount of time possible in nature. I need green spaces and water. I like to feel like I am part of a place and see into a different life. I do not enjoy bouncing between the top ten sites. I prefer wandering and having no plan. The only rule to travel for me now is to have fun. I like seeing where the adventure takes me. I want to be slow and thoughtful. 
  4. I want to keep taking French classes or keep up with the language in some way. I can understand more than I can respond to at the moment. I think Migros French classes were great and the small class size really helped. I would recommend learning how to order food before coming here. People may know English but it’s good to get into the habit of ordering in French. 
  5. Packing: Leave room in your suitcase for gifts. Bring a variety of outer layers because that’s what you’ll be wearing most & it’s cold. Bring two dressy outfits maximum. Don’t bring any shoes you can’t see yourself walking a few miles in. Bring a canvas tote for groceries or as a multipurpose day bag. Bring small things to feel like yourself (necklaces, earrings, etc.) Bring cold medicine. Bring a carry-on backpack that would work for school, internship, and weekend travel. 
  6. I am done and ready to go home. I am excited to see my family and my partner. I am looking forward to familiar cozy spaces with the people I love and trust most in the world. This was just the right amount of time abroad and I feel peaceful leaving.
  7. Get an international phone plan and debit card with no foreign transaction fees. 
  8. Make the most of long weekends. Flights can get expensive, but trains and buses are great. Brainstorm a list of priority locations and make a plan with the people you meet here (or not! Solo travel is great too). The south of France, southern Germany, and northern Italy are spectacular. But also know that the Swiss pass is the most incredible thing ever and see as much as you can of Switzerland. Airbnbs are cheaper than hostels with even a small group or one friend.
  9. Check out the museums in Geneva, many are free. Go to La Grange to soak in pretty flowers and green. Take a water taxi (included with the Swiss pass). Sit by the bains de paquis. The city can feel cold and formal but the weekends can be more energetic. 
  10. Things are closed Sundays except for the places families or foreigners go to relax, i.e. lakeside Geneva or cafes in more urban areas. 
  11. Keep your valuables on you at all times. I wear a black vest with zip pockets. I would not trust the luggage racks on the trains. Never leave your bags alone. 
  12. For the program’s last weeks, we had the choice between an internship or an independent study project (ISP). While the internship was interesting, I think six weeks might be better used for completing a unique independent project on something you are really motivated to learn about. People who did ISP had much more time to travel. 

If you are considering studying abroad, do it. It’s transformative, you learn about yourself in unexpected ways, and it is a chance to grow in a radically different environment. If you are worried about leaving your partner like I was, just know that you can make it work. Take things day by day, be patient with yourself, talk about your emotions, and communicate everything. Reflecting on old memories can be nice but also emotionally difficult. Make plans for the future together. Know that your relationship will sometimes feel limited but that the communication aspect will grow exponentially. As someone who has had anxiety off and on, I also want to say that it’s possible to work through it and have fun at your own pace while listening to your body. 

Some of the most peaceful and beautiful days of my life in Cinque Terre, Italy

I hope this blog has been helpful. I wish you the best of luck with your travels, whether that means exploring your relationship with yourself or in the physical world. Studying abroad is likely to bring you on a journey mixed with both. 

Lots of love & feel free to contact me if you have any questions,

Genevieve

Finances (Tuesday 4/18-Sunday 5/7):

– 207 USD at Migros on food

– 55 USD Eating out

– 200 USD in Cinque Terre, Italy (I only used cash so not entirely sure)

= 462 USD (food covered by SIT stipend)

*Over the course of the program, I spent roughly 1,219 USD on non-traveling food in Geneva. The program provided around 1,300 USD for food so I would say I landed right on budget.

 

A string of reflections

When I applied to write this blog, I had plans to do more themed posts. But, I’ve realized that the experiences and mental breakthroughs I’m having here are not at all congruent with each other. I’m much more confident in myself and in my abilities than I was before coming here. But I can’t pin one moment or week in which that change happened–it’s cumulative. 

On one hand, my time in Switzerland has felt like a dream, and on the other, a plunge into the real world. I think it’s been difficult to be a foreigner and not be involved to a meaningful extent in the happenings of the country I inhabit. I lack a lot of contexts to understand the systems and issues at play. In a way, it makes life here feel like a dream since I’m untethered to any long-term, substantial, stakeholder positions within this place. I’m a visitor and I think that’s both a privilege and a challenge. 

If it wasn’t for my internship where I happen to have a few other college student coworkers, I’m not frequently in spaces that feel familiar. I miss the feeling of a college campus and the spontaneous bursts of life that you fall into on a daily basis. I take for granted that at Whitman I get to be around an artistic, welcoming, and fun group of people 24/7. The French House, where I lived last semester, was the perfect balance of happy chaos and calm for me. I loved our little community and I hope they are getting on well. In some ways, I think I might have enjoyed a program where I would have been around more young people on a campus or in a student/college city. Since I live in a village that’s at least 45 minutes away from Geneva and has a limited bus schedule, I can feel a bit isolated. My program has people in villages all around Nyon so it takes some coordination to meet. I think an added difficulty is that in bad weather there aren’t many places to just hang out. Restaurants are expensive and cafes close around 6 or 7 pm. The libraries, mostly reserved for quiet space, are small and have infrequent hours. I realize I miss the communal spaces a campus provides and the venues for no-cost socialization. Another person from a sister SIT program recently moved to my village and it’s been really good to have a walking companion. The other day we walked to another village to see the baby cows. 

The clear benefit of not being on a campus is that I’m closer to nature. There are plenty of walks and hikes to do on a whim that I can get to with public transit. Swiss people are also very athletically inclined and value regular healthy climbing up a mountain. Remember the Swiss orphan Heidi who lives in the hills with her grandfather? She’s the Swiss exemplar in the restorative nature of simple mountain life.

It’s typically to see families waiting for the train with serious hiking gear or balancing skis over their shoulders on the weekends. However, I think the concept of going in nature is more serious and technical than it is in the U.S.. Kids grow up here getting taught to ski in school and seem to have some “survival skill” knowledge from frequent mountain field trips. Many people seem to have a second place they retreat to for outdoor sports. Granted, the environment here can be brutal and does warrant some education. Dangerously steep cliffs, landslides, and avalanches come with the beauty of this dramatic landscape.

Back in Maine, I am used to families going on more casual meandering walks on the beach or on clearly marked nature preserve trails. These places are more controlled than the hikes I’ve seen here. Usually, there’s safety signage and educational placards about the local wildlife. Kids will be silly and people will take their time to sit on benches along the way. Plus, trails tend to be accessible for all age levels, comparatively short, and sometimes even paved. As long as you’ve got sneakers and a water bottle, I think most Americans would say you would be ready to go. That’s not so much the case here. In Switzerland, people have made comments on my sneakers (note they are Merrells and are super grippy) for not being true hiking boots. The fact that I like to wear athletic leggings and a sporty skirt while hiking has also been seen as weird. Despite saying that I am comfortable, the Swiss people I’ve met have considered me woefully unprepared for outdoor activity. 

Despite that, I’ve still had plenty of good times exploring. My favorite activity is going somewhere new, walking around, and people-watching. This weekend I took the train to Grindelwald and did just that. Grindelwald is one of the mountain villages in the Bernese Alps along the Jungfrau Region. It’s a stunningly unreal place. I kept feeling like I had walked into a snow globe or diorama. The farmhouses could easily have been miniatures intended for dolls. Some are still functional farms but it appears most of the houses are ski vacation rentals. 

To close this general theme of confidence, dream worlds, and unexpected differences, I want to mention my first truly solo trip ever to Florence. I was incredibly nervous, to begin with, but experienced a huge surge in self-confidence when I realized I had done something incredible for myself. As a historian and romantic, I love Florence wholeheartedly. I visited when I was eight and it felt full circle to come back as an adult and take myself on my own independent journey through the sights. I went to the Uffizi and the Boboli gardens Saturday. Then I walked the Oltrarno (meaning the other side of the Arno River), the Giardino delle Rose (Rose Garden), and the Piazzale Michelangelo on Sunday. Florence is dreamy in the sense that all sorts of historical happenings occurred within its preserved cobblestone streets. I felt like I could see hundreds of years taking place in front of my eyes, like a long-exposure photograph where rapid motions blur into streaks.

To say the least, my brain is buzzing with observations and reflections. 

Hope all is well wherever in space/time this post finds you,

Genevieve

Finances (Wednesday 4/5-Sunday 4/17):

– 134 Groceries

– 164 Hostel in Florence (PLUS Hostel, good for the money! My big trip of study abroad $)

– 70 Eating out in Florence (SandwaChic and SimBIOsi Organiz Pizza)

– 41 One dinner in Geneva. Yikes!

– 9 Florence admission tickets with EU visa/student price

– 140 Hostel in Interlaken

= ~558 USD (food covered by SIT stipend)

*estimates, not exact figures.

Update + When Things Go Wrong

I only have thirty-three days left in Switzerland. That’s crazy! I’ve been trying to soak up the European atmosphere and appreciate this landscape more consciously these past few days. Reminding myself to take in my present surroundings has also been a good skill to handle my first experience with homesickness. I miss people most of all and have found caring for a long-distance relationship inevitably difficult. Frequent phone calls, walks outside, and releasing feelings into safe conversations with friends here or by phone really help.

While the internship itself is quite relaxed, I do have a research paper due at the end. French class has two final exams split between a written and oral test that I will also need to start preparing for at the same time. What this comes down to is that my weekdays are very occupied. I have a 50-minute commute to the office from my village and I’ve been cooking and doing kitchen chores to help my homestay. So, before I know it, it’s late evening once I return home and have everything done. It’s been interesting to reflect on this new work/life balance, which in Switzerland has thoughtfully been reconsidered as a life/work balance. Swiss people take liberal lunch breaks, typically are encouraged to go on holidays, and experience much more support for child-care schedules or maternity leave. I find my coworkers at IBJ are reflective of this value system even though no one in the office is actually Swiss.

This past weekend, I went to Freiberg, Germany to visit my friend Jensen (check out her OCS blog). We were discussing funny stories of all the random and sometimes weird things that happen while abroad. What I took away from our conversation is that these random small events snowball to build resilience and confidence. And, if nothing else, they add to the plot!

For example, today I got on the wrong bus and accidentally misled another person into doing the same. We jumped off, I ran back to my bus stop and then realized my best bet was taking the bus I’d just left to catch the train from another village. I can almost guarantee a similar thing will happen to anyone reading. Besides saying “Check the screen with the stops!”, I want to highlight the fact that it’s okay. People will understand if you’re late and it helps to laugh it off. The same goes for the inevitable issues of language barriers. At this point, I’m desensitized to feeling foolish while trying to converse across languages. If no one is wildly insulted and you come away with what you need, it’s a win! There’s even the possibility it could go well. As silly as it sounds, “strangers are just friends you haven’t met yet.” This is not all to say that every day I feel adventurous, brave, or positive – or that that is even a possible human goal. Sometimes weird things are just weird and it doesn’t need to be a lesson in strength.

Another tidbit: While back in Greece, the apartment toilet exploded water. I mopped up mystery liquid far more times than I care to go into. Little did I know, Greece has some of the oldest sewers and pipe systems. Our group had mindlessly been creating a ticking time bomb! But, when life gives you seeping sewage, you mop it up and go on with your day.

I’m sorry that was so gross. Let me leave you with some stunning images of Freiberg to clear your mind and encourage you to check out Jensen’s blog.

Finances (Sunday 3/26-Tuesday 4/4):

– 76 USD at Migros

– 30 USD on treats in Freiberg…black forest cake <3

– 23 USD on tickets to see Freiberg vs Berlin football game

– 48 USD on train tickets from the border (Basel) to Freiberg

= 177 USD (lunch food covered by SIT stipend)

*estimates, not exact figures.

Trying new things

I got back from Greece a week and a half ago. Since then, it’s been a rush of internship days, three-hour French, and somewhat spontaneous adventures via train. I’m trying to savor Geneva and Switzerland more right now because I have some international trips planned in April. The program is halfway done already!

I’m writing this on the train to St. Gallen which is almost as far as you can get from Geneva on one train. As we move northeast, I’m enjoying the ability to watch the countryside go by. With my bag full of snacks and chargers, I’m set for hours in my little office setup. The reason I’m going to St. Gallen is to see my cousin who I haven’t seen in ten years. In an odd twist of fate, she’s engaged to a Swiss scientist and we’re all getting brunch together. Definitely unexpected, but infinitely cool. Last weekend I took this same train to Zurich just so I could walk around in the rain, see their old town, and check out the historic sites. I visited the National Museum of Zurich which has an incredible exhibit on Swiss history and the formation of the federation. It helped underline for me why the cantons are so important and how remarkable this peaceful formation is. While making my way up and down the riverfront, I also checked out the Grossmünster Protestant church which began being built in 1100. To give context, that’s the high middle ages. Despite the history, they had the most marvelous stain-glass windows I’ve seen in a church since maybe Notre Dame. I loved the union between modern and ancient which reflects the church’s stated mission to evolve with the times. 

Note: Public bathrooms are decently difficult to find, but the dependability of Starbucks still stands here. However, I’m still hurting from my seven-franc 12 oz Starbucks iced coffee. An expensive coffee on the train, however, felt totally worth it. The longer trains have adorable dining cars with white tablecloths and lanterns. As an old movie fan, it was a small price for the whimsy of feeling like Eve Kendall in North By Northwest (1959).

Now that we’ve moved into the second half of our program post-Greece, I have a new schedule. Mondays and Fridays are three hours of French, SIT seminars Monday afternoons, and the three middle days of the week at my internship with International Bridges to Justice (IBJ). I know that sounds like a lot of French, and while it is, we are learning at an accelerated pace and progressing faster because of it. Our big project for this second piece of the program is to write a paper related to our internships by interviewing at least three experts from the field. I am beginning to brainstorm who I want to talk to and what my prepared questions will be. However, It’s only been three days of my internship, and I feel like I have barely touched the surface. The first day was nerve-wracking as to be expected. Within a few hours, I was already assigned a project. This past week was an especially weird one to join IBJ I think because they were in a rush to finish a major grant. Before I knew it, I was writing a budget narrative, checking numbers, and formatting their grant application. What has been most reassuring about my internship is that there are three other interns, at least that I’ve met so far, who are from other programs based in Geneva. We sit together in the main room and it’s been nice to have collaborators/coworkers. It’s a small headquarters office of mainly upper-level administrators since IBJ’s real employment base is at its Justice Resource Centers offices overseas. The Geneva headquarters is kind of like the central nervous system to their employees, partners, and programs overseas.

I’d be remiss to not also briefly mention my other train-enabled escapades. 

Montreux: Gorgeous city of lake riviera and a one-hour train ride from Geneva. It lived up to its reputation as a place Hollywood golden age celebrities would escape to… Charlie Chaplin, Coco Chanel, and Freddie Mercury. However, that was just the beginning, since the real treat was taking the cog railway (Swiss pass applicable) up the mountain to the tiny ski resort of Rochers-de-Naye. I forgot about how snowy it would be and we scrambled/slid up and down the slopes to the viewpoint.

Versoix Chocolate Festival: This is serious business. This festival is the annual gathering of the best chocolatiers in the region for a showcase of chocolate sculptures and unique flavors. Don’t be fooled by the crowds of children running around with chocolate on their faces, Swiss chocolatiers do not mess around and hold court over their superior chocolate booths with reserved elegance. Behold my variety of emotions as I bite into a chocolate truffle I could not read the label of…

Joy? Intrigue? Disgust? Delight?

Finances (Thursday 3/16-Saturday 3/25):

– 25 CHF on chocolate

– 20 CHF for crepes in Yvoire

– 20 CHF lunch from Manor in Geneva

– 15 CHF on various coffees

– 8 CHF on museum pass

– 150 CHF on groceries/lunches

= 238 CHF/258 USD

*estimates, not exact figures. Not sure why so much at Migros lately. Might update.

Antiquity

Discovering ancient sites was a clear highlight in Greece. We had long days and field trips on Saturdays, but I left feeling very satisfied with the amount of time we devoted to studying Greek antiquity. 

For our second Saturday trip, we took an early bus ride to the Temple of Poseidon near the tip of the Attica peninsula. This was not only a holy temple but a fortified town and harbor for Greek warships. The location was raided and sacked over the centuries. The first temple was destroyed and a second was rebuilt on top of the older temple’s foundation. A large wall surrounded a one-street town (its foundations are still visible), a stoa (covered walkway with columns), and the temple. On a smaller hill across from the Temple of Poseidon is a less intact temple to Athena. I wish we had had more time to sit by the cliffs and watch the strikingly blue waves turn the sea.  

In a small cove between the cliffs, there are two traditional Greek tavernas serving fresh seafood and a small hotel. Our group split up between the restaurants and I ended up on the patio overlooking the cove and the temple up above. The water was dazzling and it was one of the most cinematic moments of my study abroad trip thus far. It was enchanting. So enchanting that a few people jumped into the water in their underwear! Back in Athens, our class took a field trip to the Agora, the center of political life in Athens. Only free men over eighteen could enter. It held not only temples but a courthouse, the mint (for coins), and a library. On display were the pieces of pottery with carved names that citizens used to vote. All the votes for a person were put into their bowl and if water did not leak out, meaning enough pottery plugged the bottom, they could be exiled. Under Athenian democracy, men who became too popular posed a risk to the balance of power. Therefore, they would be honorably exiled for ten years while the city took care of their business.

Hüseyin, our CYA archeology professor, gave one of his signature lectures, mixing improvisational comedy with a history lesson. Greek methodology is filled with comedic irony and drama but his lecturing style makes it even more hilarious. Athenians adopted the cult of Dionysus, the god of wine, pleasure, and almost every other indulgence. Dionysus, like many gods, was fickle and unpredictable. 

For our last field trip, Hüseyin led us on an entertaining tour of the Acropolis. The Parthenon literally means virgin and it was created to honor the goddess Athena’s virginity. That, of course, got some jokes. Athena and Poseidon fought to be the protectors of Athens. Athena won with her olive tree over Poseidon’s water spout. It was very windy so after we were released from our tour I took pictures and quickly descended the Acropolis. With the afternoon free, I rested and did a little gift shopping. I got mugs for my boyfriend and me at an adorable artists’ studio/showroom called Threesome Ceramics. (Sorry, that’s just the name!) They have beautiful handcrafted pieces and I would highly recommend them. 

Sunday = Beach day. After the Temple of Poseidon shenanigans, we were all itching to jump into the sea. A group of us grabbed Ubers to go to the “Athenian Riviera”. Vouliagmeni Beach has a snack bar, bathrooms, and sports areas about a thirty-minute ride from central Athens. For a five euro off-season entry, we had access to lounge chairs under umbrellas and an expansive beach in a protected cove. It was absolutely worth the money just to lounge in the sun like lizards and forget winter. It was in the mid-60s and getting cloudier by the minute so I jumped in the water before the weather gave me an excuse not to. After I got used to the feeling of my body going numb in the chilly water, it was really fun to be momentarily weightless in the salty Aegean.

That’s it for Greece. Next week I’ll return to my regular content on Switzerland. In fact, I’m writing this from a train dining car headed to Zurich! Thank you so much for reading if you’ve gotten this far.

Finances (Wednesday 3/9-3/15):

– 70 USD on food

– 20 USD on Ubers (about $5 per ride when split five ways)

– 60 USD on gifts

= ~150 USD ($90 covered by SIT food/Greece travel stipends)

* I wasn’t great about keeping track since most places prefer cash, not card. 

Energy

Athens is diverse, conflicted, and youthful. There’s a warm energy of people wanting to make something, but maybe in different directions. Politics is a clear example. 

But more viscerally, when looking around there are tons of new restaurants and cafes. Maybe some are for the tourists, but there seems to be a genuine push to create a renaissance out of what has been a dark period. Moreover, each Athenian neighborhood has its own vibrant character. Within a few blocks, you can go from an immigrant neighborhood with signs in multiple languages to designer luxury stores to authentic Greek cafes crowded with locals. The compact and diverse neighborhoods feel somewhat like San Francisco. The steep streets (note Lycabettus Hill) reminded me of climbing up to Coit Tower in SF with my boyfriend over winter break. Lots of green and lots of colors. Athens’ beauty earns its place under a wash of pink and orange sunsets. I can’t get over how much the landscape is imbued with magic.

I had a great time doing an Instagram story takeover for Whitman OCS (now in saved stories). I shared our lecture and trip to the Numismatic Museum of Athens to study Greek coinage. I also posted a bit about the art student protest and my expedition into the Exarchia neighborhood, known for anarchy and dissent, to talk to locals about the historical context for current student protests. Right now, the government is forcing the construction of a new metro station in Exarchia Square. Armed police guard a high fence that now covers the green space known historically for hosting anarchists and counter-culture. Some are calling it inevitable progress but others are highlighting the curious coincidence in location and the likely gentrification of a working-class area.

Many nights in Athens people would go out to the clubs or bars downtown. My friend and I felt like being homebodies but decided we’d venture out for a quick drink down the street. Greece has these incredibly romantic patio bars where people talk for hours. It feels like a semblance of a lost period in time when people meeting in a public place was the main form of news, gossip, and academic thought. While I still can’t make sense of it, the service was comically horrible at the spot we chose. We spoke to five different waiters repeatedly to order and then begged to be able to pay and leave. Each time they would say “just a minute!” and then take a smoke break, get a massage from a coworker (?!), and then help other tables while ignoring us. Two hours later we were hysterically laughing as we escaped bar purgatory by shoving our change in someone’s hand. 

Every other place I went to in Greece was extremely prompt. This is especially the case because it’s the law that you get a bill when your order is served. Sometimes restaurants would have a bill bowl on the table and we’d create a little pile throughout a dinner. It’s not too hard to split bills because waiters will typically come over with a mobile credit card machine when you ask. Note: Favorite meal bottom right at Ama Lechei in Exarchia.

We had a few wrap-up sessions as our day of departure neared. I presented my project: “Lost Faith: Student Protest in Light of the Greek Economic Crisis”. In addition to the students I talked about last week, I interviewed a police officer and a shopkeeper in Exarchia. To quickly summarize, the poor management of the Greek financial crisis created mistrust between students and the state. This has been renewed by anger over the train disaster. There is growing suspicion of corruption within the student community and frustration with negotiations. For the generation who grew up in crisis, there is little faith in the government responding to or solving issues.

It was difficult witnessing people my own age having such intense frustration. My encounters were corroborated by other students who did similar projects. While the older generation sounded more optimistic, elected officials do not seem to represent the students and consequently the future of Greece.

Greece

I haven’t known how to start writing this next blog post. Amazing beautiful things have happened but I also experienced a lot of stress before leaving for Greece. I felt that it would be disingenuous to not state that, though I will not be explaining further for privacy reasons. 

It’s necessary to explain that Greece is going through deep mourning and frustration with the government in light of the train tragedy. Today is the general strike where many unions and protest movements are joining together to protest at Syntagma Square in front of the parliament. I don’t want to sound ominous, but the amount of built-up emotion I’ve seen makes me feel nervous about what could happen next. While I have walked around Athens in blissful awe of the magic imbued in this landscape, there’s a subtext of tension outside the touristy places. I might be more on edge than typical because our classes are focused on the economic crisis. The protests today are inextricably tied to the difficulties Greece experienced with the Great Recession, the subsequent EU bailouts, the migrant crisis, and the political upheaval that led to the rise of the first neo-fascist party in Europe to gain power post-World War II. These would be heavy topics at any moment to discuss in classes but are even heavier because of the train tragedy.

 

Yesterday my friends and I talked to protestors outside the National Theater who have been occupying the building for over a month (Ziller Theatre Squat). They are theater students who have been told that their arts degrees are virtually worthless as the government has decided to downgrade their certificates. Our one assignment in Greece is to talk to locals and do informal interviews around a broadly identified research topic. We all felt drawn to the fact that people our age were engaged in such an ambitious movement and immediately wanted to talk to them. As our class passed the theater for the second time this week, we asked permission to break off and talk to them. The students were very friendly and eager to tell us about their cause in English. We talked to three young women who said that the cuts to the arts are spurred by corruption and that the train tragedy is the case in point of the government failing to do its job. I am not sure yet where I am going with my assignment, but I feel solidarity with the students. They laughed about their outfits being typical of art students and gleefully talked about their aspirations to continue studying the arts. One of them said she would do anything to go to Juilliard. At that moment, they could have easily been my friends at home in the United States talking about their dreams. This article explains further than I can here.

During the week, we have classes from around 9 am to 5 pm. This includes virtual French classes with our Swiss teachers. College Year Athens, which is hosting us for these two weeks, has amazing professors, a spacious student building, and a pleasant cafeteria where we eat on the weekdays. We are located right next to the Panathenaic Stadium in an up-and-coming neighborhood called Pangrati. There are plenty of nice restaurants and the food is absolutely incredible. I can easily say I have had the best food of my life in Athens (note Ama Lachei). The city is chaotic and the drivers are ruthless, but Athens is beautifully alive and friendly. The Mediterranean ease of living is evident and a welcome shift from Switzerland. This past weekend we went to Delphi to see the temple and visit the museum of ancient artifacts. I was blown away to be in a place with such historical and cultural significance. My time here has been a busy heightened sensory dream. I am awe-struck every day that I get to be here and surprised by how emotionally connected I feel to Greece.

Finances (Thursday 2/23-Tuesday 3/8):

– 58 USD at Migros

– 65 USD eating out in Greece

– 46 USD on groceries in Greece

– 21 USD for Greece/EU SIM

= ~190 USD (All covered by SIT food/Greece travel stipends)

* Calculations are not exact but close estimates. USD because confusing to show both Swiss Francs and Euros for Greece.

émerveillement = wonder

I got sick again, so I apologize for the delayed post. I’d like to take this as an opportunity to remind future travelers: take all your favorite meds abroad because you never know.

Notwithstanding my current predicament, it’s been a lovely past week. Last Monday, all the students and our homestay families came together for a Swiss dinner at the Chateau de Nyon cave. As our appetizer, the servers placed huge boards of cured meats and bread on our tables. Next came the potatoes in their quilted bag, which keeps them warm for our incoming meal. Finally, the raclette plates were passed around. Raclette is a traditional meal of soft-boiled potatoes with rich melted cheese. In a restaurant, the servers dish out the melted cheese onto your plate in rotations around the room. Typically, you squish down your potatoes/fermented vegetables and scoop the cheese on top so you get a delicious savory bite of cheese, starch, and juicy pickled flavor all at once. It’s incredible, but a very heavy meal. That’s why you eat fermented vegetables or drink wine to aid digestion–at least, that’s the traditional advice. For those who do not drink, hot tea is acceptable, but never water! Cold things are believed to slow down digestion and make the cheese clump in your stomach. 

Many Swiss people I have met tell me that Switzerland was an impoverished country until recently. Therefore, many of their iconic dishes are peasant foods or creative ways to deal with farm scraps. As the legend of Switzerland’s wealth goes, the Protestants in the 1500s banned all jewelry but exempted watches. Magnificent watches became the hallmark of Switzerland because it was one of the only ways people could display their wealth. Over a few hundred years, the technical precision of watchmaking converted to other industries like machinery and pharmaceuticals. Though I’m sure this is simplified, I would have to agree that the Swiss are excellent with details. The architecture, the art, the transportation systems, and the clocks are so impressive. It sounds silly, but what really made my mouth drop the other day was seeing a man dragging a giant tube along the Geneva train platform to vacuum specks of debris—no wonder it’s spotless.

Painted details at the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul

From last week’s classes, the highlights were a guest lecture from one of the founders of Money Leman and our visit to the European Free Trade Association (EFTA). Money Leman is a complementary currency offered as crypto and paper money that is exchanged among a community of sustainable businesses in the Geneva Lake area. The goal is to keep business and money in the local economy as much as possible. I also found the EFTA extremely interesting as it’s an alternative trade organization to the EU between Switzerland, Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway. These countries have industries, like fishing or farming, that they think will perform better with more autonomy and negotiation power than the EU provides. 

We had some free mornings before classes to explore my friend’s town of Versoix for a few hours. We visited the library, went to a thrift store, and hung out in a cafe back In Nyon. I feel lucky to have found someone in my program who enjoys the same relaxed activities. However, I still make it a priority to explore independently. On Saturday, I took the train two hours each way through incredible countryside views to Bern, the federal capital of Switzerland. Since I was by myself, I think I was able to allow my curious mind to wander more and notice details about the city. All I did was walk around, rest, and try to breathe in the city on what happened to be a gloriously sunny day. I fell in love with the quaintness of Bern’s old town, the light-hearted atmosphere, and the amount of green space available along the river.

Writing this, I’m feeling some déjà vu because, in every French class, I have to give a short presentation on where I have visited or a class topic I have found interesting. It has helped me pick up new words like émerveillement which means wonder

Je regarde toujours avec émerveillement. I always look with wonder.

This is how I described going to the Geneva Botanical Gardens in class. It reminds me of growing up in Chicago and visiting the Chicago Botanic Garden or the Lincoln Park Conservatory. Exploring the various greenhouses with my friend this past Sunday made me feel like a little kid again. With acres to explore, I am excited to return when the spring flowers start to bloom.

Next week we fly to Athens, Greece for two weeks to study the financial crisis.

Until later!

Finances (Tuesday 2/14- Wednesday 2/22):

– 80 CHF at Migros (covered by SIT food stipend)

– 24 CHF Cafe drinks/desserts

– 19 CHF Friday night spending (La Taproom in Geneva, Burger King snacks, and La Parenthèse in Nyon)

= 123 CHF/131 USD (80 of which was covered by SIT)

* calculations are not exact but close estimates

Routine

Perhaps I’ve started to feel like I have a routine in Switzerland, even if that routine is characterized by unpredictability and the little challenges that come with living in a foreign country. I think studying abroad is truly an exercise of open-mindedness. It’s important to be kind to yourself and allow room to adjust expectations.

On Tuesday, we had a morning meeting at the World Trade Organization (WTO). We gathered at the “bubble door”, a decorative art piece in the main entryway of Geneva Cornavin station, before our expedition into the streets. Like a school of fish, we oscillated between conversation groups but generally walked as a unit. We were freezing cold when arrived at the security gate at the WTO. We were given a tour of the main meeting room where all the WTO members sit facing each other at rows of long tables. We sat in the seats closest to the stage as countries like “Armenia”, “The United States”, and “Sri Lanka”. Our guide, a member of their Communications department, explained to us how the process to enter the WTO typically takes a decade because it means negotiating thick books of tariffs on all the goods and services a country trades. The WTO is built on the basis of the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) from 1947 which many countries signed in agreement to limit the barriers to free trade. This World War II revitalization effort for trade goods evolved into the WTO in 1995 and now covers services and intellectual property as well. All decisions made in the WTO are made unanimously which means every single member has to agree. This means that it’s very hard to have a member leave, as they need to vote themselves out as well, which came up at the start of the War in Ukraine in regard to Russia.

The stated purpose of the WTO is to improve the welfare of people worldwide. However, the WTO concedes that globalization has not benefitted everyone equally. At Whitman, my classes discussed how some countries have become producers, where cheap labor and the environment are exploited, while others have become wealthy consumers. The new Director-General of the WTO, Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala, is the first African and the first woman to lead the organization. She’s sought to bring this understanding of inequitable globalization to the forefront of policy discussions. 

It was electrifying to be in the room where fiercely debated policy decisions are made. During very tense times, members can stay for hours hashing out decisions with members sleeping on the floor and pizza delivery. The light-filled futuristic architecture, with towering glass and rounded walls, had a lightness that did not divulge the weight of its importance.

For days after our WTO visit, I had time off from classes to conduct interviews for an internship, a substantial component of my program. I was able to interview with marvelous organizations and received offers from all three. It was hard to choose, but I have decided to join International Bridges to Justice, starting in March. Their mission is to help those in developing countries secure justice by way of competent legal aid and resources in an effort to stop torture before it happens. I will have six weeks with them where I will be working on writing grants to fund their grassroots resource centers in twelve different countries. I will also be conducting some legal research independently to help expand their legal advice Wiki page.

I had a free day mid-week to explore Geneva and I ended up going out by myself to the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire. It has to be the most uniquely curated museum I’ve ever been to. So stunningly immersive. I visited the church of Protestant Reformer John Calvin, St. Peter’s Cathedral. Then I bought a scarf in an effort to fit into Swiss fashion and much-needed warmth. While I enjoyed these days, being deeply surrounded by French and unfamiliar things plus the stress of moving around a foreign city made me very tired. After a busy few days, I had hit my limit and that was ok. I sat in the Basilica of Notre Dame and allowed myself to be quiet. Not every moment of study abroad needs to be packed and, in reality, I am still the same human with the same needs as I was in the United States.

Over the weekend, I decided to take it easy. I walked in the medieval city of Morges by the water, I drank wine al fresco in Lausanne with my friend, and we saw a unique underground concert in Nyon by a Swiss band singing pop-rock in English. On Sunday we went up to the Jura, the mountains just beside the lake to the north. While clumsily trekking in our snowshoes, we couldn’t believe how lucky we are to be here. Looking up at a weather station, leaning against an old stone wall, madeleines and sandwiches in hand––the sunshine reflecting off the snow made me feel renewed and adventurous again.

Talk soon.

Finances (Tuesday 2/8-Monday 2/13):

– 107 CHF on food (covered by SIT food stipend)

– 20 CHF thrifting sweater + shirt

– 38 CHF scarf from Zara

– 27 CHF charging cable

= 192 CHF/209 USD (107 of which was covered by SIT)

* calculations are not exact but close estimates

Voyager

Though I’ve now had two weeks in Switzerland, my process of studying here began much earlier. In the winter of sophomore year, I began my application for the Gilman Scholarship, a program through the U.S. Department of State to award scholarships to Pell Grant recipients who may not typically be able to study abroad. With the help of the Whitman Off-Campus Studies office, I submitted a successful application and received a scholarship. I truly encourage everyone eligible to apply. As part of the award, I have to complete a service project which, in my case, is this blog! 

My purpose in writing is to illustrate the professional development benefits of studying abroad and the attainability of an abroad experience. Of course, I will also be sharing travel and adventure anecdotes. This brings me to this past week…

For most of our “working” time, we were running around Geneva, from train to bus to tram, to visit various organizations which have created relationships with SIT for those who apply to become interns. After we return from Greece in mid-March, we will embark on a six-week internship in our admitted organization. Most of them are start-ups looking to make a difference in the environmental sphere, combat climate change, or fix a social problem. A few internships are clustered at GENEUS, a start-up incubator, and Impact Hub, a co-working space. Toward the end of the week, I submitted my resume and cover letter to three and arranged interviews (SIT reserves two and a half days for independent interview work). I’ve already had to sign an NDA to discuss a certain start-up’s technology–I will reveal more next week once I know where I’m headed!

After seeing the view from the top of the GENEUS office, we went on a walk by the lake.

We have French for two hours Mondays and Fridays which means that I’ve now had three classes. Having studied French for four years in high school, I tested into Intermediate French which means I’m in a class of just three students. The majority of the program has no French experience and is in Beginner French. All the classes are complete French immersion with a native speaker. It is a sharp learning curve, but it is extremely valuable to know French here. Despite Geneva being an international city, daily tasks and life in the city of Nyon and the surrounding villages are very much conducted in French. Though people may know English, there is a preference that you try to speak French. 

Our homestays are also meant to be French immersion, although different families seem to have different expectations. With my homestay, we had a rough start on French because I was sick last week. We are working towards speaking more French, though I’ve been very privileged since she speaks perfect English. We’ve been able to have fascinating conversations about life, politics, and cultural differences. I think we have been warming up to each other and I try to show appreciation by helping her cook dinner, taking out the dog, and helping clean up the kitchen. I feel very safe and comfortable in my life here even though it’s been barely more than a week.

Along the lake looking towards the Geneva water fountain (the Jet d’Eau).

I commute every day from my homestay in a village near France to either Geneva or Nyon. The public transportation is excellent and without parallel. Our Swiss Pass from SIT allows us to use virtually every form of public transit anywhere in Switzerland for free. We are completely spoiled as many Swiss do not even have this *extremely* expensive pass. I took advantage of this fact this past weekend by traveling to Lugano, a city in the south of Switzerland near the Italian border with friends I’ve made in my program. We took the five-hour trip Saturday, explored the city over 24ish hours, and returned on Sunday night. I can’t recommend Lugano enough. We emerged from snow and mountain tunnels into a breath of summer, Mediterranean color, and Italian atmosphere. The sunshine was absolutely blissful and danced on the gorgeously clear water of Lake Lugano.

We found an affordable Airbnb in Campione (an Italian enclave inside Switzerland) and split the cost among us five. For a one-bedroom private apartment that could sleep five, it was only $26 per person. Though we splurged on a nice lunch, we made pesto pasta and shared a bottle of Prosecco for a calm night in. Sunday morning, Lugano was tranquil and we looked around in awe as the bustling streets of Saturday had been transformed into a peaceful network of stone staircases and church bells. To punctuate our trip, we took the funicular rail up Monte San Salvadore for panoramic views and lunch with a phenomenal view.

I should cut my writing here, but next week I’ll share my thoughts about our visit to the World Trade Organization and interviewing for my internship.

Merci, à bientôt!

Finances (Sunday 1/29-Monday 2/7):

– 25 CHF Airbnb in Capione (split bill)

– 7 CHF for Capione groceries (split bill)

– 25 CHF lunch in Lugano ( 15 on pizza and 10 on Aperol Spritz)

– 20 CHF more cold meds

– 75 CHF at Migros on foods/snacks  (covered by SIT food stipend)

– 15 CHF on coffee at my favorite spots (Ex Machina in Nyon and Foound in Geneva)

= 167 CHF/180 USD (75 of which was covered by SIT)

* calculations are not exact but close estimates